With ski season fast approaching, it’s time to pick up that pair of bindings you’ve been eyeing all year. But hold up-as you eagerly unbox them and daydream about fresh powder, don’t forget to install and adjust your new bindings correctly.
While the allure of taking matters into your own hands might be tempting, tackling the mounting and adjustment of your ski bindings without professional expertise can lead to a downhill spiral of issues.
Here’s a step-by-step guide for those more experienced DIY skiers:
How to mount ski bindings at home - free and easy!
Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Equipment
Before you mount ski bindings, ensure you have all the necessary tools:
- #3 pozidrive screwdriver (this is a non-negotiable)
- Drill bit (either 3.6mm or 4.1mm)
- Drill
- Tap to prepare the screw holes
- Screws for the bindings
- Masking tape
- Center punch
Most ski shops have jigs for specific bindings, which can help ensure you mount the bindings properly. Having a clean, organized workspace is also essential.
Read also: Battle Bindings: Performance and Value
If you don’t have the proper tools for mounting your bindings on skis, including the jig and ski mounting drill bits, it’s best not to do it yourself. You could end up ruining your skis.
Also, be cognizant that this template is just paper and can 'bend', so verification of a straight edge is imperative.
Step 2: Find and Verify the Template
Find and print a template. Verify scaling.
You can see below where a fresh print was slightly undersized. It was approximately 1/16th an inch short at 7in. I scaled the print UP to 101% and found it to be spot on.
THIS MAY NOT BE WHAT YOU NEED, YOU GOTTA VERIFY YOURSELF.
Read also: All About Twin Tips
Step 3: Find Your Boot's BSL
Find your boot's BSL. This should be stamped on the shell on the sole. If you can't find it, some manufacturers should list it if you look up your make/model according to size.
Step 4: Carefully Fold Over Template
Carefully fold over template toe and heel side template at your BSL. For 328, I split the difference between 325 and 330mm. You can see the marks I made here where I made the folds. Take care to do this as square as possible. If the measurement isn't spot on, your fwd adjustment will compensate.
Step 4.20: Tape Each Template Sheet Together
Tape each toe and heel template sheet together at the fold you made. Make sure this is as straight and true as possible. A straight edge comes in clutch here.
Step 4.2069: Mark the Center of Your Ski
Mark the center of your ski. This ain't rocket surgery. I used a speed square at a known location on each side of the ski, marked a line and where the lines intersected is where the center of the ski is. You can also measure, split the difference, bada bing bada boom you got the center.
Step 5: Align the Template
You see those cut outs I made above? That's because the seam of the heel and toe template is the center of your boot! This is truly the genius of these templates. Line the template on the centerline of the ski, and the seam where you taped together the templates to the mount location you want.
Read also: Safely Remove Bindings
The cutouts on the side of the templates helped me see where the recommended mount line is to line it up with the taped seam. If you want to mount fwd or back of the rec line, now's your chance!
Now is also a good time to verify the mount locations and drill bit type you need. It should be printed on the topsheet and it's also not a bad idea to make sure the mounts are what they say they are as the topsheet could shift during the pressing process. Nordica makes these lil nubs and it's super convenient.
All skis have one or a few markings indicating where to position the binding. As a general rule, the center of your boot should be one, two, or three centimetres from the center line marker on the ski.
For both novice and powder skiers, the standard binding position is slightly behind the center of the ski. This has the advantage of providing better stability and easier floating in deep snow.
Snow park skiers who make sharp turns or want to change direction extremely quickly prefer a more central position on the skis.
Accurate measurements are critical when putting bindings on skis to align with the boot center. Use masking tape to mark the mounting point on your skis.
Step 6: Use a Center Punch
Once the template is taped onto the ski and straighter than bob ross, use a center punch on the hold crosshairs so the drill bit doesn't wander. I also take this time to place the bindings on the ski and get a sanity check that everything is in the right spot and I didn't fugg it up bad.
Once the holes are punched, I like to take the template off and verify the centerpunch marks are straight and centered.
Step 6.9: Drill!
Drill! I got a fancy bit that has a shoulder so you don't drill thru your base. In the past, I've used a regular drill bit and the tape method. The tape method sketches me out on a ski with metal in it because it takes a decent amount of pressure to punch thru the titanal and the tape ain't stoppin shit if the bit's got some momentum going down.
If you do use tape to verify drill depth, be careful. Or drop the guap on the right bit it'll last you a lifetime.
The drill bit size and depth will be on the topsheet of the skis.
In theory, installing bindings is a simple process. All you have to do is drill holes in the skis, add a little glue and screw the bindings in. Using masking tape for marking critical dimensions can help avoid damaging the ski surface.
First, you need to make sure you put the toe holes in the right places and drill to the right depth.
Be careful not to drill through your new skis! Specialised technicians use the manufacturer’s templates and special drills that don’t go through the ski.
The size of the drill varies depending on the composition of your skis: are they made of wood, composite or do they have a metal core?
Once the center mark of the boot is aligned with the mark of the ski, the manufacturer’s template is used as a guide, so the holes are correctly placed according to the length of your boot.
After the holes have been drilled and cleaned, ensuring all the holes are free of debris and drilled to the correct depth is crucial.
Step 7: Glue!
But before that, shake the shavings out of the holes and cut away any topsheet flashing. I use this wood glue, some people use epoxy, my brofessional opinion is that it doesn't matter as long as it'll make the holes sealed off to moisture.
After drilling, we fill the holes with special binding glue.
Step 8: Mount!
On pivots, it is easiest to do the back screws on the heel first, then the front due to the pressure the brake spring puts on the base. Get the screws to German torque (Gudentite). They just need to be snug, you don't want to strip these bad larry's out gorilla fucking them in.
Verify the bases of the bindings are flush with the top sheet and there's no air gap.
You can then add a little glue to hold the binding screws firmly in place.
The bindings are screwed onto the skis. Your ski bindings are now mounted and ready to be shipped to you.
Step 9: Adjust!
Another disclaimer: I'm about to lay out a ton of bro-science. If you're concerned in the least bit, take your shit to a shop where some goober will use special equipment that will make sure your shit's good to go.
Adjust your DINs. If you don't know what they should be at or how to do it, I advise not doing it yourself.
Pivots use 2 screws on the back to move the 'dildo' forward and back. This is what adjusts your fwd pressure. Click your boot in, and screw in the dildo screws little at a time (you'll feel a cam lock every 90 deg or 180 deg I don't remember) equally until the white tab hits the molded line. Between adjustments, remove the boot and rotate the heel to cycle the fwd pressure indicator.
NOW. Here's what I do that may or may not be the most kosher thing in the world when it comes to pivots. Sometimes, you can screw the dildo in a ton and not make much progress on the indicator. I keep screwing until when clicked in, there isn't a ton of lateral heel movement. Sometimes the boot can be loose-goosey in the binding side to side in the heel but the indicator can indicate 'adequate' fwd pressure. This is not my preference. Maybe someone with non-hackjob experience can chime in here.
I adjust until excess play is taken up, then verify the fwd pressure indicator is still on the line. I am not comfortable taking the fwd pressure indicator tighter, or 'over' the indicator line.
If you have literally any other alpine binding, you don't have to worry about that last step, there is usually just a screw in the back that either needs to be flush with the housing or there's an indicator that will be flush with a line similar to the pivots.
Before skiing, the bindings must be correctly adjusted to your ski boots. This can be done at a nearby ski shop or by yourself.
Step 10: Go Rip!
The 'oh shit did I do this right' feeling goes away after a couple days on the hill. If I can do it, and the stoned 22/44yr old at the ski shop can do it, maybe you can too. Hope this helps along the way.
Importance of Proper Installation
Proper installation of ski bindings is essential to ensure a safe and enjoyable skiing experience. Incorrectly mounted bindings can lead to a range of problems, including poor performance, reduced control, and increased risk of injury. A well-installed binding system allows for smooth, efficient skiing and helps to prevent accidents.
Risks of Improper Installation
Improperly installed ski bindings can pose significant risks to skiers. If the bindings are not mounted correctly, they may not function as intended, leading to a loss of control or even a fall. Additionally, poorly installed bindings can cause damage to the ski or boot, resulting in costly repairs or replacement. In extreme cases, improper installation can lead to serious injury or even fatalities.
Safety First, Always
Ski bindings are not just about strapping your boots to your skis-they play a pivotal role in ensuring your safety on the slopes. Incorrectly mounted or adjusted bindings can lead to serious injuries, as they may not release as intended during a fall, collision, or sudden stop. This could result in injuries like ACL tears, fractures, sprains, and potentially much worse.
The Precision Predicament
Achieving the right balance between a snug fit and a safe release is a delicate art. Certified technicians undergo extensive training to understand the nuances of binding adjustment, taking into account factors like skier weight, ability, and skiing style. Attempting this without the proper knowledge, including ensuring that you drill straight to maintain precision and stability, can result in settings that compromise both safety and performance.
DIN Dilemmas
The term “DIN” isn’t just a buzzword; it stands for Deutsches Institut für Normung, the German Institute for Standardization. DIN settings on your bindings determine the force required for the bindings to release. Merely guessing these settings is like trying to navigate uncharted territory blindfolded.