Maintaining your snowmobile's fuel system is crucial for optimal performance and longevity. A key component of this system is the fuel filter, which ensures that only clean fuel reaches the engine. Understanding the importance of fuel filters, the types available, and proper maintenance procedures can help prevent costly repairs and keep your snowmobile running smoothly.
The likely issue with any fuel filter is chiefly incorrect maintenance. Fuel filters can start to cause issues if the correct service schedule isn't adhered to. It's not a bad idea to replace filters more frequently than the recommended service schedule states - but having said that many cars run way past their service intervals with the original filter, without issue.
Clean fuel and a free flowing filter has a huge bearing on how well your car runs, and as they aren't hard or expensive to replace there's no excuse. External filter housings, or connections can at times leak - or allow air into the system. Both of these can cause running, and starting issues, so it's well worth checking them if you have problems, such as poor starting, hesitant acceleration, or the engine 'dying' at low rpm.
Filters should generally be replaced between 20-40,000 miles - although your owner’s manual will have the suggested replacement intervals. If the filter is in the tank, there often is no suggested replacement interval.
One thing you can do is always buy branded gas from a reputable station, and never get gas while the tanker is delivering fuel. Avoiding dirty gas and sediment will keep the filter clean and the fuel pump in good condition.
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Fuel filters aren't expensive - with the most basic in-line filters costing a couple of dollars. More involved filters may cost up to $50, but in general you're looking around the $10-15 mark.
Make sure that you have fresh fuel in the system. DONT start the sled with old Gas if you can possibly avoid it. Also... a good idea is... BEFORE you start the sled...drain out ALL the old gas, put in new clean gas... then run the fuel pump with the prime connector... THEN change the filter.
I also recommend that you run a bit of fuel through the filter by connecting it to the fuel tank end...Dont connect the other end to the fuel rail yet... Put the loose in in a bucket or bottle and run the pump with the prime connection.
Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing Your Snowmobile Fuel Filter
Install the filter using the procedure below:
- Open the left and right door panels.
- Depressurize the fuel system.
- Remove the clutch cover.
- Remove the airbox bracket.
- Disconnect the fuel supply hose fitting.
- Reinstall the clutch cover.
- Install the ECU bracket onto the oil tank.
- Reinstall the drive belt.
- When removing the fuel filter fuel spillage will occur.
- Leaks from the fitting.
- Into the fuel rail.
- Connections.
- The chassis.
- Oil tank.
NOTE: On the 2013-2014-2015 sleds.... you will not need a disconnect tool to unhook the fuel filter line from the tank connection. See photo below for details.
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ON 2013-2015's... Polaris does not provide a test-port/pressure-relief on the PFA (Pump Flange Assembly)... place a rag over the return line at the PFA... slowly disconnect to release the pressure. On the 2011 & 2012's... shrader valve should be built into the PFA. Use a rag to avoid the gas spray...It is under medium pressure at 58psi... and will spray pretty good. Better yet... use a hose with the proper fitting and screw to it.
The 2011/12 end on the fuel filter-hose that attaches to the fuel- rail will fit the 2013/14/15.
There should be NO "hex bolts" removed when you are pulling the fiter-hose-fitting out of the Fuel Rail... I am just not seeing the "clamp" here is a pic of what I am looking at. The bolt is a 5/32 hex.
Step 2) ... remove.... AHH.. you mean hex socket screw.... Once thats off... you will be able to slide the "fork" type clamp out... be carefull and don't drop it under the engine.
If you dont have the release tool, take apart a pen, trim it to length and cut it down the length. Depending on the pen you may need to shave the end down a bit. Lightly grab with pilers and slide down into the connector.
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Also, Be prepared for quite a job to R&R the fuel filter... plan on 2 hours for the lay-person. Yes, I know you super-human tech guys can do it in 8 minutes with and rock and screwdriver with one hand behind your back...but for most that have not done it before... it will take some time.
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While on most vehicles changing the filter is straightforward - on other cars, (mainly diesel trucks) you often have to fill the filter housing with fresh fuel, or use a hand pump to draw fuel through the system when you swap filters, otherwise it will be difficult, or even impossible to start. Trying to start some vehicles without fuel in the system can cause damage to the fuel pump, as the fuel also acts as a lubricant - so if after changing the filter the car refuses to start - don't be tempted to keep cranking it over, as you could find yourself needing a new fuel pump!
You should only need basic tools to replace the filter - but if your vehicle requires the filter to be 'primed' prior to use then you will need to invest in a primer/hand pump. These aren't particularly expensive, and it's always worth checking to see if you'll require one for your filter swap.
If you are dealing with a car that has the filter in the tank, it is more complicated. Be prepared to pump the fuel out of the tank, or lower a heavy tank of fuel. In-tank filters are sometime integral with the pump, but even if they aren’t, it is a good idea to replace the pump, and the pre-filter strainer while the tank is out.
tags: #snowmobile #fuel #filter