If you’ve had your eyes on the ski and snowboard media in recent years, chances are you’ve read plenty about skiing in and around Taos. The pristine terrain, epic snowfall, and abundance of après-ski opportunities keep Taos’s ski resorts on top-10 lists year after year. Within the area called The Enchanted Circle, options abound for skiers and snowboarders of all levels, from kids and beginners to extreme enthusiasts (i.e., people who enjoy launching themselves off cliffs). Each ski and snowboard resort in the Taos area has its own vibe, from rustic to swank, yet they all have something a little special that sets them apart from other destinations.
It may have something to do with the bluebird skies, the vertiginous grades, or the bone-dry stashes of powder. Or maybe it reflects the camaraderie between those searching for a different kind of ski and snowboard experience, one that Taos offers in spades. After a day gliding the groomers with the kids, pounding your knees on marathon bumps, or swooshing through the trees with only the birds for company, Taos’s ski resorts have plenty more to offer the body and soul.
Soak your weary bones and get a massage for your sore muscles at one of the many day spas at Taos’s ski resorts. Then replenish your energy stores for the next day on the slopes with anything from spicy northern New Mexican cuisine to four-star fine dining, on the hill or in town.
View of Taos Ski Valley. Source: snowbrains.com
The Mystique of Taos
That’s the Taos Ski Valley mystique. Tucked away in the Sangre de Cristo mountains, everything about the ski area is contrary to what most skiers are used to. I’ve been skiing since I was in grade school, and have lived in the West for the last 20 years, but I had never made it down to Taos before this winter. The resort had been high on my bucket list for years; it often lands in the Top 5 in our annual Reader Resort Survey, and my colleagues who know the place gush about it. Yet they can never seem to really explain what’s so special. “It’s just a different vibe,” they’d say.
Read also: Is the Gnu Antigravity Snowboard Worth It?
History and Terrain
Taos Ski Valley came to life in 1955 after Swiss-German skier Ernie Blake spotted the perfect location to build a ski resort while flying his Cessna between the two ski areas he helped operate, Ski Santa Fe and the now-defunct Glenwood Springs Ski Basin. The ski area’s first lifts were surface conveyors, including a J-Bar in 1956 and a platter in 1957. Until 1957, the ski resort featured only one ski slope, Snakedance.
Taos Ski Valley offers plenty of terrain for all ability levels with 49% of its vast terrain designated beginner and intermediate runs. Expert skiers and snowboarders will love the legendary Taos steeps. Skiers have access to 1,294 acres of skiable terrain with 119 trails and 12 lifts. Taos is a powder lover’s paradise and is known for having light, dry powder, undetectable lift lines, steep chutes, big bumps, cornices and tree glades.
Taos Ski Valley Trail Map. Source: skitaos.com
Kachina Peak
For those looking to make some untouched powder turns, hike or ride to the top of Kachina Peak. The crown jewel of Taos Ski Valley, 12,481′ Kachina Peak stands tall above the Sangre de Cristo Mountain Range. The Kachina Peak summit is legendary and offers some of the most spectacular views and inbounds skiing and riding in North America. Historically demanding a 45 minute hike, the Kachina Peak Lift now delivers skiers and riders to the peak in just 5 minutes.
Kachina Peak wasn’t open when we visited, but we still found plenty of adventurous terrain to conquer. A longtime hike-to haunt for freshies, the Kachina Peak Express opened in 2015 to much local chagrin. But Taos’ remote location (thanks Ernie Blake!) combined with mountain ops’ judicious decisions around when to run the lift-it often shuts down in wind and big storms-has not caused those fears to bear out. Instead, even hardcore locals have come to appreciate the 1,100-foot ride to the summit.
Read also: Battle Bindings: Performance and Value
“Before the chairlift was installed, Kachina was only accessible via hiking from the gate at the top of Lift 2,” says Berman. “Following a storm, ski patrol will typically open the peak to hike access only for at least a day prior to opening the chairlift. TSV was founded by Ernie and Rhoda Blake with an intent of maintaining a European-style mountaineering element.
West Basin
West Basin is home to some of Taos Ski Valley’s steepest chutes, chokes and rock bands. A short hike from the top of Lift #2 will offer access to a multitude of different runs featuring countless lines to choose from. From local’s favorites Stauffenberg and Zdarsky, all the way to Wild West Glades, you are certain to find terrain to get your adrenaline pumping and challenge even the best skiers and riders.
Stauffenberg is reached via the West Basin route, and is about a 15-minute hike. One our last trek over there, on President’s Day itself, there’s barely anyone on the bootpack. We drop in one at a time, each making crisp jump turns through the steep entrance through the middle of the run, which is lined on both sides with rocks and trees.
Enthusiasts looking to really push themselves should check out Dahl-Bredines’, a rocky face littered with billy-goat lines and big drops.
Lone Star Skills Park
Lone Star Skills Park is looking better than ever. Featuring a new layout with exciting new lines. Skier’s right is home to some smaller jumps, rollers, and features for those just beginning to explore the freestyle terrain park. Skier’s left features a larger line, including several big airs. Scattered boxes and rails catering to all ability levels help to fill out the park and allow skiers and boarders to link silky smooth lines.
Read also: Renting Snowboards in Whistler Blackcomb: What You Need to Know
Taos Ski Valley Terrain Park. Source: YouTube
Ski and Snowboard School
Taos Ski Valley has one of the top-rated ski and board schools in the country, for beginners to experts, so you can sharpen your skills to unparalleled form. Children’s lessons are based out of the Rio Hondo Learning Center with its fun activities and special tots’ Snowsports School. The Snowsports School at Taos offers a variety of adult lessons, both group and private. There’s sure to be a ski week or a day lesson that will get you to the next level.
Accommodations and Dining
Opened in 2017, The Blake is a great basecamp for a Taos ski trip, especially a quick visit when you want to be close to the action. The main hotel portion of The Blake is slopeside, with easy access to the ski valet, spa, pool and hot tubs, ski shop, and restaurant. We stayed in one of the Blake Residences, which are housed in a separate building a bit deeper into the village.
The other full-service option in the village is the Edelweiss Lodge & Spa. It’s ski-in/ski-out, with a ski valet, hot tub and sauna, and the Blonde Bear Italian restaurant.
On the mountain, The Bavarian is a must, especially on a nice day. The wooden-chalet-style restaurant opened in 1996, and was constructed in the style of its namesake mountain huts in the Alps. That’s also where the menu takes its inspiration. The Bavarian is the place to be for lunch on the sunny patio. The beer menu is extensive, and the house-made German cuisine is tasty and filling. We also ate at Rhoda’s Restaurant, at the base, for a quick midday fuel up.
For dinner in the village, Der Garten is worth a visit. The Euro-tinged menu includes dishes like Seared Ahi Tuna Nicoise and Spicy Bison Meatball Pasta. At the Taos Ale House, expect a pub fare including wings, burgers, salads, and wraps in a chill space.
The après scene at the base is small but lively. The Martini Tree, located slopeside, often has live music. They also serve pizza by the slice and by the pie.
Getting There
We drove from Denver, and it was a surprisingly easy trip. There’s only one sketchy mountain pass, La Veta, and compared to Vail or Berthoud, it’s a cakewalk. There are multiple routes from Denver, some certainly more scenic, but the most direct is taking I-25 to Route 160, which turns into Route 522 once you cross over the New Mexico border.
If you’re flying, JSX Air offers service from Austin, Dallas, Los Angeles, San Diego, and Denver right to Taos’ small regional airport.
An Insider's Guide to Taos (Part b-Kachina Basin & Extreme Terrain)
Additional Tips
- For anyone coming from the flatlands, do take note that Taos is a high-elevation ski area. The base village sits at 9,200 feet, and Kachina tops out at 12,481.
- In the excitement to get up to the ski area, we forgot to stop at a grocery store to stock up on reasonably priced essentials. There are two small shops in the village that carry bottled water and basic groceries and the like, but the prices are high.
- The artsy town of Taos is about 30 minutes from the ski area, and is absolutely worth a visit. If you have an off-slope day and enjoy gallery hopping, this is the place to do it. There are over 70 art galleries in town showcasing works by local through internationally renowned artists.
- Dining in the town of Taos is an event in and of itself, especially if you like authentic Southwestern fare. For dinner, Orlando’s home-cooked Mexican is fresh and delicious. Try the shrimp tacos or the tamales with red and green (Christmas) chile.
Historical Context
In the 1800s, present-day Taos Ski Valley was the site of a small copper mining town called Twining, New Mexico, which was later abandoned. The Blakes lived in an eleven-foot camper in the absence of any buildings in the area except the almost-completed Hondo Lodge (now Snakedance Condominiums). Even after moving into the lodge, they lived without power until 1963. Ernie was for a time involved in the day-to-day management of the Taos resort, answering the phone and telling prospective visitors whether the skiing was expected to be good in advance of weekend trips.
Taos Ski Valley Statistics
Here's a table with some key statistics about Taos Ski Valley:
| Attribute | Value |
|---|---|
| Base Elevation | 9,200 feet |
| Kachina Peak Elevation | 12,481 feet |
| Skiable Terrain | 1,294 acres |
| Number of Trails | 119 |
| Number of Lifts | 12 |
| Beginner/Intermediate Runs | 49% |
| Advanced/Expert Runs (2006 data) | 51% |