Moncler: A History of Innovation and Technology in Ski Wear

Seventy years ago, in September 1952, René Ramillon and André Vincent founded a small company in the Alpine village of Monestier-de-Clermont, France, making quilted sleeping bags for mountaineers. They named it Moncler, an abbreviation of their hometown. Since then, Moncler has evolved from a manufacturer of mountaineering gear to a leading luxury fashion brand.

As Moncler reaches this monumental milestone, it’s celebrating this rich heritage with Extraordinary Forever, a new campaign that delves into the brand’s photographic archives to revisit some of its most iconic moments. Sixteen photographs captured by just as many lenses across seven decades reflect the remarkable heritage of a brand that has transcended its mountaineering origins and successfully infiltrated the worlds of high fashion and youth culture.

The Moncler story began in 1952 in a village in the French Alps near Grenoble, Monestier-de-Clermont (a contraction of the village's name provided the brand with its name). The founders René Ramillon and André Vincent believed that the time had come for a new approach to alpine fashion. Their signature item was soon born: the down coat.

Moncler is in fact the abbreviation of Monestier-de-Clermont, a mountain village near Grenoble. In the beginning, Moncler produced padded sleeping bags, a single model of lined hooded cape, and tents with a telescopic structure and external covering.

The first Moncler down jackets were made in 1954 for the company’s own workers, who wore them over their work overalls at the small mountain factory. The first to note them and realize their potential was French mountaineer Lionel Terray.

Read also: Ski Style: Ralph Lauren's Influence

In 1954 Moncler was the official partner of the Italian expedition to conquer K2, the world’s second highest peak, led by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli, with the help of Walter Bonatti. A company with only two years of experience equipped one of the riskiest and most spectacular expeditions in history.

From there on, the road would be downhill-that is, it led to downhill skiing and other winter and mountain sports. And that brings us to the turning point when the down jacket arrived in the big city. It changed winter silhouettes. The trend quickly went global.

During the olympics Moncler became the official supplier to the French downhill ski-team. In 1972, the French national team adopted a new version of the down jacket: no longer the "double" model, but a single, more practical and lightweight garment tailored to the requirements of competitive sports. Initially named "Huascaran" and later "Nepal," the model featured leather shoulder reinforcements designed to carry skis without damaging the fabric.

When Coccia asked a group of young men and women what they shared in common, the answer was unanimous: “fashion!” Moncler had successfully united two different goals: one focused on performance, the other on style. The two different objectives are still very much alive and apparent today.

In the early ‘70s we’d see the first down jackets as we understand them today: the real turning point came with the “Nepal” model, equipped with leather shoulders to rest skis on without damaging the fabric and worn by countless skiers discovering a new tourism on the snow, soon destined to become a mass phenomenon across Europe.

Read also: Ski Wear for Plus-Size Skiers

With the arrival of the ‘80s, Parisian stylist Chantal Thomas began to collaborate with Moncler, replacing zippers with buttons and introducing fur linings, satin, and reversible fabrics for down jackets in the city. Among the first to intercept the new Moncler jackets and to establish them as a distinctive accessory were the teens of Milan’s upper class, meeting in front of the Il Panino snack bar, listening to New Wave music on their Vespas and earning the nickname of paninari, a style that went on to sweep the nation.

Moncler had successfully united two different goals: one focused on performance, the other on style. The two different objectives are still very much alive and apparent today.

In 1992, Moncler became an Italian brand through its acquisition by Pepper Industries, which later sold it to Finpart. In 2003, the brand was acquired by entrepreneur Remo Ruffini, who at the time also served as the company’s creative director.

In 2003, Moncler was nearing bankruptcy and was acquired by Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini. In 2003 the brand was acquired by Remo Ruffini, who is today the president and CEO of the Moncler Group (a luxury stable that also houses another Italian export in Stone Island).

During that time in 2003 Remo began a global expansion in the luxury goods segment. Remo Ruffini bought the company in 2003 and moved it to Milan, re-launching Moncler as a global purveyor of luxury goods.

Read also: Choosing the right snow pants

In 2006, the Moncler Gamme Rouge line was launched. In 2006 with Moncler Gamme Rouge and in 2009 with Moncler Gamme Bleu, the Moncler universe was further enhanced with Haute Couture collection, ended in 2017 when Moncler launched a new project. In 2008, the Carlyle Group acquired a 48% stake in the company, while Ruffini retained 38%.

In 2010, the Moncler Grenoble collections made their debut in New York that, reinterpreting they styles of the past, creating technical skiing garments and apres- with contemporary take. Then there was Moncler Grenoble (2010), with which the brand revisited its history, giving a contemporary spin to skiwear and after-ski fashion.

On December 16th 2013, Moncler was floated on the Italian stock exchange of Milan. Shares were offered at EUR 10.2 and rose over 40% the first day, signaling Europe’s greatest success story in recent years. Since 2013 Moncler has been listed on the Milan Stock Exchange.

In 2018, Moncler launches the new project Moncler Genius. In 2018 we overturned some conventions of the luxury world with Moncler Genius, creating new forms and new ways of interacting with the brand and all those who have collaborated and created with us.

In December 2020, Moncler made headlines in Italy with its acquisition of Stone Island, or rather the Sportwear Company that holds the brand, giving life to a hub of Italian luxury.

Today, to fully realize its potential, Moncler is defined by three key brand dimensions: Moncler Collection, Moncler Grenoble, and Moncler Genius. Each plays a crucial role in shaping the brand’s future through unique initiatives and a narrative that strengthens its identity.

As of 31 December 2024, the network of Moncler mono-brand boutiques counted 286 directly operated stores (DOS), a net increase of 1 unit compared with 30 September 2024 and of 14 units compared with 31 December 2023.

Moncler also continues to develop the digital channel. Following the internalization of the .com site completed in 2021 and the subsequent implementation of the new front-end concept of the platform, the evolution continues with constant updates, in order to improve the experience and the customer journey inspired by the world of entertainment, guaranteeing smooth navigation with dedicated contents and services.

Moncler offers a wide range of down jackets to the public, generally positioned in the luxury segment, with a market expansion also into the summer season.

In looking back on the story of Moncler’s first 70 years, let’s start at a moment in the middle and, specifically, a YouTube video from 1986. Follow a rabbit hole that starts with a Google search about Italian street style and fashion in the 1980s and you, too, may soon find yourself watching a documentary segment where Italian journalist Grazia Coccia explores Milan’s street style scene at an unusual moment.

Milan at the time was an animated mix of different subcultures: goth and metalheads, rockabilly and punk. But what most interested Coccia and many others were the paninari who embraced designer ostentation for a calculated smugness. (The term comes from the Italian panino, or sandwich, as sandwich shops were popular meeting places for followers of the trend.)

When Coccia interviews them, she includes questions along the lines of the now-popular “How much does your outfit cost?” format. She asks her subjects to list what they are wearing and what items they want in their wardrobes. One name comes up repeatedly: Moncler.

As the brand turns 70s years old, that moment in 1986 marked, roughly, the midpoint of the brand’s history.

Moncler's Technological Advancements

Moncler has consistently striven for technological innovation to enhance the performance and quality of its products. From sourcing the finest white goose down to implementing rigorous quality control measures, Moncler ensures that its garments meet the highest standards.

All raw materials must comply with the highest qualitative standards in the industry, be innovative and able to offer advanced functional and aesthetic features. Moncler only buys the best white goose down from Europe, North America and Asia.

Fine-down content and fill power are the main indicators of down quality. Each batch of down is subjected to a two-step checking procedure to assess its compliance with 11 key parameters, set in accordance with the strictest international standards and the stringent quality requirements imposed by the Company.

Since 2016, all Moncler down is certified with the DIST internal protocol. Down is one of the most important raw materials for Moncler.

Moncler requires and verifies that its down suppliers comply with the strict requirements laid down in the Moncler Technical Protocol called DIST (Down Integrity System & Traceability), available on the page dist.moncler.com, and verifies that they do so. The DIST Protocol, first implemented in 2015, regulates methods of breeding white geese, the traceability, and technical quality of down.

Moncler Grenoble has become a technology and style innovation lab, enriched with luxury-mountain lifestyle elements, celebrating the glamorous flair of the Alps, for the sporty consumer with an interest in performance, design and innovation.

Moncler Grenoble Fall Winter collections are split into High Performance, products guaranteeing maximum performance, Performance & Style, for the sporty consumer who also cares about design, and Après-Ski, for the consumer who is looking for style with a sporting edge.

Transversal to the three brand’s dimensions, the footwear collection - with the launch in September 2022 of the new family of Trailgrip products - takes on an increasingly significant role in the brand’s product offering, being developed taking into consideration not only the brand codes but also different potential usages.

Moncler directly manages the creative phase, the purchase of raw materials, as well as the development of prototypes. The purchase of raw materials is one of the main areas of the value chain.

The “cut-make-trim” phase is conducted both by third party manufacturers (façon manufacturers) and in the Moncler manufacturing plant in Trebaseleghe (Padua) and in the plant in Romania that currently employs more than 2,000 people.

The third-party suppliers (façon manufacturers) working for Moncler are mainly located in Eastern European countries, which are currently able to ensure quality standards that are among the highest in the world for the production of down jackets. Moncler oversees these suppliers directly by conducting audits designed to check aspects related to product quality, brand protection and compliance with current laws, Moncler Code of Ethics (updated in 2017) and the Supplier Code of Conduct (approved in 2016). Moncler ensures that all its suppliers comply with the highest quality standards.

To verify compliance with the principles set out in the Protocol, Moncler constantly carries out strict field audits throughout its almost entirely vertically integrated down supply chain. In particular, in 2024, 210 third-party onsite audits were carried out, verifying all entities in the supply chain. Where auditors found minor non-compliances, farms were required to take timely corrective action before obtaining certification.

To transparently communicate the Company’s commitment in this area, a tag indicating “DIST-certified down” is included in all Moncler’s jackets. In order to promote constant improvement, Moncler is committed to involving and raising awareness within its supply chain, including through training activities. In this regard, in 2024, training on the traceability procedure continued for façon manufacturers of outerwear and knitwear.

Stone Island is also committed to ensuring that the down used in its products is obtained in a manner respectful of animal welfare. Since 2019, the Company has only used duck down certified according to the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) protocol.

The standard aims to ensure that the down used comes from farms that protect animal welfare throughout the production chain and full traceability of certified materials. In particular, since 2023, all Stone Island products containing down are labeled with the RDS logo and certification information according to the standard guidelines.

Moncler’s team of fashion designers is divided by collection and works under the close supervision of Remo Ruffini, who sets design guidelines and oversees their consistent implementation across all collections and product categories.

For Moncler Grenoble, the dimension closest to the mountain roots of the brand and the most authentic to its DNA, 2024 marked a year of reaching new heights, taking its signature blend of performance and style all year around to a level never seen before.

Moncler explored new ways to connect with diverse audiences and deepen its influence across fashion, culture, and performance. In October 2024, Moncler introduced a bold new chapter for Moncler Genius with The City of Genius, an extraordinary immersive event closing the Shanghai Fashion Week.

Luxury Brand Strategy

Remo Ruffini transitioned Moncler into a luxury brand with two major shifts: one, increasing aspiration with elevated product, distribution, and events, and two, engineering Moncler into a hub of cultural leadership with signature visuals and their Genius platform. These actions have not come without cost. However, they allow Moncler to charge higher prices, sell more product, and potentially lower marketing spends in the long run as attention flows to the brand.

Luxury brands can sell more items at higher prices than brands focused on functional benefits alone.

Moncler’s path fits into the Luxury Brand Strategy model.

It was not enough for the Moncler brand to offer functional benefits; luxury brands must also deliver emotionally. Typically emotional benefits come in the form of conveying messages to other people by the act of owning said brand: I am on trend, wealthy, attractive, and/or part of a group that others want to be part of.

Ruffini wanted to associate Moncler with high fashion, and one of high fashion’s top moments are its runway shows. But puffer coats aren’t typically parts of fashion week. Again, until Moncler. To capture the attention of editors, Ruffini staged large scale performances, including a 363-person flash mob in Grand Central Terminal in 2011, an ice skating show at Central Park’s Wollman Rink in 2015, and a marching-band style takeover of Lincoln Center in 2016.

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