Wherever you find deep winter snow, you’re likely to find snowmobiles. What goes fast also has to slow and stop at some point. That’s just as true for snowmobiles as it is for industrial and manufacturing equipment.
Whether your snowmobile is brand new or has a few years under the belt, your brakes are your primary safety guarantee. It is imperative to always be aware of their condition, as your life, and that of others, depends on it. Adopt a preventive approach rather than a reactive one to ensure your protection. Moreover, by performing regular inspections, you significantly reduce the risk of breakdowns, especially far from home.
Types of Brakes Used in Snowmobiles
In an industrial setting, brakes are used to control speed and tensioning and to provide reliable stop-and-hold.
Vehicles use active hydraulic and pneumatic brakes, as well as spring-applied and mechanical brakes. Here at Branham, we’re known for our wide variety of mechanical, pneumatic, and hydraulic caliper disc brakes. We put them on virtually everything except cars.
For vintage sleds, W.C. Branham makes a floating caliper brake-model H38SAFG-with pads on both sides of the disc to provide smoother, faster, more efficient braking. The result? Braking that is five times faster, according to drivers. Their brakes are now safer, too.
Read also: Reliable Snowmobile Performance
At W.C. Branham, we’re brake geeks, so we like to put brakes on things. Typically, when we’re working with a manufacturer, they have a new equipment design that needs brakes, but vintage snowmobile racing is an entirely different-and very cool-application. The old machines have plenty of go, but the brakes? Not so great. In racing, braking requires finesse-you need to control forward momentum and direction without sacrificing any more speed than absolutely necessary.
The rules don’t allow much in the way of modifications. Brakes are an exception, however, because stronger, more reliable brakes help improve safety. Owners were frustrated because their attempts to retrofit brakes didn’t work well. Then, a few years ago, a vintage sled enthusiast found W.C. Branham.
Vintage snowmobiles used in racing have a one-cylinder engine and the original carburetor, so they’re pretty basic machines. Owners restore the sleds so they’re like new, then use them for racing. How old “vintage” is depends on who you ask. Technically, it’s any sled over 25 years old, but many vintage snowmobile racers will tell you their machines date back to 1972 or earlier. Wherever you find deep winter snow, you’re likely to find vintage snowmobile racing. The track could be an icy quarter-mile oval or a long cross-country course. Each race could be just a few laps, or it might last for many hours. Why are we talking about vintage snowmobile racing here at W.C. Branham?
The Importance of Brake Maintenance
By taking care of your brakes, you’re ensuring your safety on the trails. This maintenance task is simple and inexpensive, yet it yields numerous benefits. Your braking will be more precise and responsive, enhancing your overall riding experience. Considering that you often use your snowmobile in extreme conditions and store it in varying temperatures, proper maintenance becomes even more critical.
Failure to maintain your brakes can lead to rust on the brake disc, corrosion on the moving parts of the brake pads, and even condensation in the brake fluid, which can degrade its performance and potentially cause freezing.
Read also: Snowmobiling Terms in Ontario
You don’t have to be the sharpest tool on the tree or the brightest bulb in the drawer to figure out that the brake is a rather important part of your snowmobile. A mechanical squeeze on the brake lever is converted into hydraulic force in the handlebar-mounted master cylinder. That force is then transferred via the brake fluid through the brake lines to the brake caliper. The caliper’s piston(s) then squeezes brake pads against the rotating brake rotor, generating enough friction to slow the vehicle.
This article is based on a Polaris snowmobile, RMK model, equipped with hydraulic brakes. You can use this information for other brands or models, but the tools or specifications may differ.
Dare to venture into your vehicle’s mechanics. You’ll become more confident and may even save money. Knowing your vehicle’s mechanics will make you more confident and able to prevent breakdowns when far from home.
Snowmobile Brake Pad Replacement and Inspection
The most obvious wear items in the system are the brake pads. Snowmobile brake pads some in many shapes and sizes, depending on the model you have. Editor’s Note: This article on changing brake pads and bleeding the brakes on a snowmobile first appeared in the Service & Repair department of the January 2024 issue of Snow Goer magazine. For more snowmobile-dedicated content, subscribe today.
Wherever you are upon the brake-use continuum, you should peek at the thickness of your brake pads about every 500 miles to see their level of wear. Some brake pads have a groove cut in the center so you can see their level of wear. If that groove is starting to disappear within the rest of the pad, it’s time to replace them. The inspection is key. Don’t wait for an audible cue to tell you that it’s time to replace the pads.
Read also: Explore Beaver Creek at Night
To illustrate this story, we borrowed a friend’s 2013 Polaris 600 Rush Pro-R and slapped new brake pads on it. Replacing the pads on this model couldn’t have been much easier. First, we needed to remove the right-side body panel to get access to the brake caliper, which is mounted on the jackshaft on modern Polaris sleds. In our case, the brake pad material was mounted on a metal host plate shaped like a griddle with a “handle” facing straight up.
Now’s a good time for a second inspection. Eyeball the pads for signs of uneven wear, and also check the rotor to make sure it’s flat and without worn grooves. If you’re lucky (which we were), the pistons that normally push the pads toward the rotor stayed retracted, which will allow the new pads to drop right into place. However, if the pistons partially filled the gap where the pads previously sat, you’ll need to physically push them back into the calipers.
It is best to do this step with an angled pry bar or even a C-clamp if there’s room. But use something broad that can push the piston back into the caliper evenly instead of pushing it back in at an angle. Once you have clearance, grab the tip of the near-side brake pad’s host plate with your fingertips or pliers, with the pad material facing the rotor, lower it into place and run the pin through it. Then repeat with the second brake pad and secure the mounting pin.
As stated, our pad swap was rather easy, but there may be variations based on the make and model of your sled. To service those brakes, the brake rotor cover on the side of the tunnel near the footwell needs to be removed to inspect the pads and change them if needed. In other instances, the caliper will need to pulled off the rotor to replace the pads.
Steps for brake maintenance:
- Remove the hood and locate the two security screws on each side of the light. Turn them ¼ turn counterclockwise.
- Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the plastic retaining pins on the side panels. Secure the right-hand panel closest to the handlebar with the starter rope.
- Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the clip that holds the brake pads in place.
- Note the level and condition of the oil. The oil should be clear and clean. If the oil is clear, adjust the level as needed.
- The brake disc should be uniform and free of grooves. Replace it if necessary. Surface rust is acceptable after storing the snowmobile during the summer. You can clean it with brake cleaner or very fine sandpaper.
- The pads must also be in good condition and have sufficient lining thickness.
- Start the snowmobile in a well-ventilated area, check that the brake light turns on when you apply the brakes. Replace it if the light does not turn on; it may be a sign that the brake switch is faulty. For Polaris models, there is a warning light on the dashboard indicating that the brake is applied.
If your brakes are noisy and you hear a “chirping” sound while riding after braking, it could be caused by the caliper piston sticking due to inactivity or lack of lubrication. To try to remedy this issue, you can perform a brake oil change. Move to the brake caliper. On the handlebars, grip the brake lever. Apply tension three times and hold the last pressure.
Brake Fluid Maintenance
Brake fluid gets dirty over time. It can also partially break-down if it gets overheated with aggressive use and can get contaminated by dirt or moisture. Getting air in the system is also a problem. If your brakes are rather squishy feeling at the brake lever, take the time to bleed them.
- A container of new brake fluid that matches your sled’s brake system (usually labeled Dot 4, though some systems use Dot 3 or Dot 5.
Start by preparing to capture any spilled brake fluid. Place one end of the clear hose on the nipple-shaped bleed screw coming out of the brake caliper, with the other end of the hose leading to your catch container. A clear water or soda bottle works well for this. Set that bottle/container someplace stable - on the running board, floor, belly pan, etc.
Next, turn your attention to the handlebar-mounted master cylinder. Before removing its cover, you’ll want to get the master cylinder as level as possible. Before removing the master cylinder cover, protect the snowmobile’s finish with a strategically placed rag. Lay a towel or rag beneath the master cylinder and handlebar to protect surfaces from spills, then carefully remove the master cylinder cover. It’s often held in place by two small screws or bolts and has a gasket underneath.
Brake bleeding is best done as a two-person team. The person working at the caliper should loosen the bleed screw (usually it’s just a quarter turn with an 8mm, ¼-inch, or 5/16-inch wrench) and then instruct the person at the handlebar to slowly and steadily squeeze and hold the brake handle. Fluid will come out through the bleed screw, into the hose you attached and will be captured in the bottle. After opening the bleeder valve, squeeze and hold the brake handle to pump old brake fluid out of the system, then close the valve. Repeat often until the fluid running into your hose and bottle is clean and clear.
Brake Usage in Different Riding Conditions
Ep25 - Throttle and Brake Control
Very little brake usage in deep snow. Typically the use of the brake on a deep snow day is preceded with a few choice words like "holy $hit" and a panic grab of the brake, this is very rarely worth your time to grab anyway.
Counter steer, and throttle tips it up on edge. Brake will set it back down flat. Learn this and little muscle is required. Especially on a Pro. I constantly have a finger on the brake at all times, the brake helps a lot in steep side hills to control the sled. If you are going to fast in a side hill the brake helps to slow you down so your not out of control.
People don't use their brakes often enough on the steep sidehills. Good mtn snow you really do not need brake to darn often. Like stated if I grab a handful of brake it is because something bad is about to happen and its still going to happen regardless of full track stop.
Using the brake is extremely important and beneficial. It's one of the most helpful techniques that I teach on the mountain to my clients to help them maintain control in technical sidehilling situations. As you traverse a hillside containing obstacles, it's very important to keep momentum but not move so fast that you cannot react and alter your line. Using the brake is key to remain in 100% control.
I am referring to short quick taps of the brake that result in multiple actions. With a quick touch of the brake lever while sidehilling, the sled will lean into the hill, pack the snow under the track providing added traction when you apply the throttle, and allow the rider a brief moment to catch up to the sled so to say and reposition your body. You're also forcing backshift in your clutches setting up for immediate response with a blip of the throttle.
In the situation pictured, I am on a fairly steep sidehill preparing to maneuver through a gap in the trees. With my pro-rmk on edge in a countersteer position, my left foot is on the right running board and my right foot is in the snow. As I approach the gap, I tap the brake to allow the front ski to dip just a bit below the upper tree and the rear of the sled to settle a few inches. Now the front bumper is pointed in the direction I want to go and I have positioned my feet forward. Just as quickly as I applied the brake, I am back on the throttle and safely squeeze through the trees in full control and ready for the next obstacle.
I find it useful when turning in deep snow to kill some speed and drop the front end, allowing me to cut the corner tighter. On my old sled I rarely used the brakes. On my first ride out on my XM, I got into the trees I found that I was using it quite frequently to control the sled. Everywhere I went I am sure that I could have managed without the brake, but the more I used it, the more I found I liked it. I know how easy the Pros are easy to manipulate so I say play with your brake the bevy time you are in the trees or even on an open side hill and see what new and amazing things you can make it do. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.
The trouble when your slowly creeping along through the trees with less track speed and less momentum as can be seen in the photo is the rider is mentally and physically working harder to maintain control of the sled. anybody, including snowmobilers grandma can sidehill a sled at high speeds! BUT it takes a lot more skill and calculations to do it slow and in control! It takes a lot of practice and mental fitness, It's not for everyone. I personally enjoy sidehilling slow and in control. you don't have to buy a new a-arm when u hit a tree at 5mph! and u can make lines that the high speed sidehillers can not do. so that gives me and my group different riding areas and in turn leaves all of your high speed sidehilling areas untouched(by me and my group). Now we both have untouched snow to play in all day. There are a lot of different types of riding groups in snowmobiling. None are better than the other, just different.
tags: #do #snowmobiles #have #brakes